Gel manicures often rely on TPO, a chemical now considered potentially carcinogenic, leading to regulatory scrutiny and reformulation efforts in the industry. While bans are imminent in the EU and expected in the UK, brands are developing TPO-free options, and consumers are advised to ask about ingredients to ensure safer nail treatments.
Gel manicures, known for their long-lasting and glossy finish, come with a range of health risks. Improperly cleaned instruments and foot baths at salons can lead to fungal and bacterial infections, while cuticle cutting and pushing can create spaces for microorganisms to enter. Gel manicures also increase the risk of water getting trapped under the nail, providing a breeding ground for bacteria. Additionally, the UV lamps used to cure gel polish have been linked to mutations in cells associated with skin cancer. Uncured gel can cause contact allergies on exposed skin, and under-curing can occur if nail polish is applied too heavily. To minimize risks, experts recommend using sunscreen or UV-protective gloves, bringing your own tools to the salon, and taking breaks from gel manicures.
A study published in the journal Nature Communications has found that radiation from nail dryers may cause DNA damage and mutations in human cells, leading to cancer-causing mutations. The study exposed cells from humans and mice to UV light, finding that a 20-minute session led to 20% to 30% of cells dying. Three consecutive 20-minute exposures made 65% to 70% of the exposed cells die. Dermatologists recommend applying broad-spectrum sunblock that contains zinc and titanium around the nails and wearing UV gloves with the fingertips cut off when curing nails to reduce UV light exposure.
Recent research suggests that UV-emitting lamps used to cure gel polish may cause cell damage that can lead to skin cancer. However, the findings are not conclusive proof that the effect would be 100% the same in real life. Experts recommend wearing fingerless UV-protective gloves and slathering hands in a broad-spectrum sunscreen, as well as being aware of medications that can increase the risk of sunburn. Alternatives to gel manicures include at-home long-wear polishes and dip powder manicures.