Calvin Klein's Body-Cult Ambition Falls Short in Leoni's NYFW Debut

Cathy Horyn reviews Veronica Leoni’s third Calvin Klein collection shown on a circular runway at New York Fashion Week, noting Leoni’s aim to move beyond the founder’s 'cult of the body' toward 'hedonistic elegance' but finds the line overcomplicated and unfocused, with too many looks and inconsistent silhouettes that fail to offer a clear, exciting path for Calvin Klein post-Simons.